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Richard William Eppler

1952 - 2011

Richard (Rick) Eppler was born on July 3, 1952, in Kamloops, British Columbia. It was those early days in Kamloops that Rick's love for the outdoors first evolved. With a couple of friends he would scramble and climb in the numerous canyons that surrounded the town. Today Rick jokes about how it was his older sister that kept an eye on him and made sure that he didn't get into trouble during those adventures. The family then moved to Victoria when he was twelve and Rick has lived there ever since. At first he attended Esquimalt Junior High, then S.J. Willis Secondary and finally Victoria High School where he undertook a trade program.

After high school Rick had a number of odd jobs around Victoria for several years and then found a job in the Mapping and Aerial Photography department of the Ministry of Forest and Lands. Over the years the title of this ministry changed and when Rick retired in 2005 it was called the Integrated Land Management Bureau. Rick was with this department for thirty-seven years and was involved in virtually all aspects of the Branch mandate. The aerial photographs often came in handy over the years when Rick was planning trips into some of the more remote or obscure mountains. "Many times when I actually got to the peak, I felt like I had already climbed it," Rick remarked.

As a teenager Rick was interested in tinkering with cars until he met Gil Parker and Dave Tansley at the YMCA course in 1971. The Y put on evening mountaineering classes and practice sessions on Humpback Road, culminating in two weekend mountain trips: Mount Arrowsmith and Mount Baker. Unfortunately Rick could only attend the Arrowsmith trip but after that Rick and initially, his brother-in-law, then John Simpson, John Molnar, Steve McConnell, and others could be found regularly climbing on the crags around Victoria, and occasionally with Martin Conder, Nick Krishnowski and Rob Macdonald at Squamish. In 1975 he retook the YMCA course which Gil and Dave were again teaching this time, and also assisted by Dick Latta. He joined the Vancouver Island section of the Alpine Club of Canada and was now hooked with the climbing bug! One of Rick's early climbs was a club trip to Rugged Mountain with Syd Watts, John Gibson, Walter Latter, Steve McConnell and John Simpson. Rick realized the summit of the mountain was the culminating point of the climb and he became a self confessed "peak bagger." That year he also made his first of many trips south of the border to Mount Baker in the Cascades and Mount Constance in the Olympics. The next year (1976) he helped Gil and Dave teach the course at the YMCA and in those early days he went with Gil, Syd and John on a number of trips to some of the more obscure mountains: Malaspina Peak, Zeballos Peak and Tahsis Mountain where he came to grips with west coast bush. In 1977 he climbed Mount Rainer in the Cascades, Overlord and Fissile Peak in the Garibaldi area and attempted Mount Assiniboine in the Rockies, along with many climbs on the island.

Over the next thirty plus years Rick has climbed in Wales (Hellvellyen and Tryfan); Scotland (Ben Nevis and Chor Bearg); England (Great Gable); Argentina (attempted Aconcagua); Mexico (La Malinche); Austria (Kaminspitzen); Switzerland (Breithorn, Dent Rouge, Weisshorn, Dent De Morcles and Le Rubhli); France (Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc); Arizona (Picacho Peak) and California (San Jacinto Peak); as well as the Canadian Rockies (Mount Abbot, Mount Afton, Eagle Peak, Mount Lefroy, Mount Temple, Mount Odaray, Mount Sir Donald, Uto Peak and Mount Schaffer); the Bugaboos (Bugaboo, Pigeon and Crescent Spire); the Valhallas (Ruby Peak, Rugged Peak and Sapphire Peak); the Coast Mountains (Mount Agur and Mount Munday); the Cheam Range (Canadian Border Peak, Welch Peak, Mount Slesse, Stuart Peak and Mount Cheam); the Monashees (Slingshot Peak and The Fin); the Tantalus Range (Mount Tantalus, Mount Alpha, Omega Peak, Mount Pelops and Mount Iota); Garibaldi (Black Tusk, Mount Carr, Castle Towers, Flute Peak and Mount Garibaldi); south of the border, Mount Shuksan, Sahale Peak, Lassen Peak, Mount Challenger, Forbidden Peak, Mount Formidable, Mount Stuart, Glacier Peak, Liberty Bell and Mount St Helens, and an attempt on Canada's eigth highest mountain, Mount Vancouver, in the St. Elias Range in 1986 with Rob Macdonald, Sandy Briggs and Don Berryman. This is not a definitive list of his mountaineering achievements but gives a glimpse of the scope and range of mountains that Rick has climbed.

However, it is on Vancouver Island that Rick is most well known and it is not who, but who hasn't he climbed with, however, it is with Rob Macdonald that Rick has climbed together regularly with for over thirty years both on the island and off the island. Very early in their climbing careers, Rick and Rob found that they formed a compatible team. Their shared passion for exploration drew them all over the island in search of "thick bush and sharp spires." Rick refers to this period as "their heady years."

In 1977 Rick began his quest to complete the Vancouver Island sections Island Qualifiers (IQ), nine selected mountain, and in 1987 he became the first to complete them closely followed by Rob Macdonald. In Bruce Fairley's book A Guide to Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern British Columbia (1986), Bob Tustin wrote the introduction to the Vancouver Island chapter and said of Rick: "…the team of Rick Eppler and Rob Macdonald have been most active in unearthing new information on the hidden corners of the island, and their rambles around The Cats Ears and vicinity have yielded some fine new climbs in a promising area."

In the corridor along Highway 4 between Port Alberni and Tofino that Bob Tustin mentions, Rick and Rob Macdonald are perhaps most well known. The pair made first ascents, many that involved some horrendous bushwhacks, of Velella Peak, Rhino Peak, Triple Peak, The Cats Ears, The Limestone Twins, and the Prow on Steamboat Mountain. They also made first ascents of Mount Grattan, Thumb Peak and The Thumb in the Mount Bate/Alava Sanctuary near Tahsis, an area that Rob was already acquainted with. In 2010, Rick and Rob returned to the Bate/Alava Sanctuary on an ACCVI summer camp and climbed again all the peaks they had first visited many years ago. This trip brought many memories back for Rick and Rob, but more than anything they were happy to share this area they love with many new and up coming friends.

One of the most controversial aspects of mountaineering is solo climbing. Although often considered foolish and irresponsible by the public (and at times by peers), some mountaineers who have amassed the experience thrive on sometimes going solo into the mountains. Rick is no exception and has sought the challenge of pitting his skills against the mountain and the elements, however, as with anyone who goes solo into the mountains they all have at least one story of a close call. In 1998 Rick attempted a solo ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell in the Rockies. While ascending a snow gully a large boulder became dislodged from above and came hurtling down the gully. With little time to get out of the way, Rick pressed himself into the slope and hoped for the missile to miss him. Fortunately the boulder became airborne and flew over the top off him but with such a close call Rick heeded the mountains advice and high-tailed it out of the gully and back down to safety.

Rick took early retired from his Government job of thirty-seven years and in the last several years he has been dealing with an illness which has slowed him down but not stopped him from climbing in the mountains. He still has a number of peaks he wishes to climb and at the rate he is going should see 100 ascents of Mount Arrowsmith in the next couple of years. In 2005 Rick visited Switzerland and soloed several 4,000m peaks and then in 2009 he returned twice and once in 2010. The first time was with Rob Macdonald and Julie Henderson when they climbed several Via Feratta routes near Zermatt and on the Eiger Nordwand, and then the next time by himself. For Rick, it doesn't matter where in the world he climbs, as long as he gets above the bush and into the alpine he is in his element.

Sadly, on February 22, 2011, Rick Eppler reached his last summit, solo, after a long battle with cancer at the age of fifty-nine. The Vancouver Island section of the ACC lost a stalwart member, and to many a good friend and an inspiration. His close friend and long time climbing partner Rob Mcdonald wrote: "If courage and steadfastness under duress define a mountaineer and friend, then there was never better than Rick. Walk untroubled to those last blue mountains, my friend, sure in the knowledge that your life enriched ours."

Sources:
Eppler, Rick. Personal communication. 2009 and 2010.

Elms, Lindsay. Beyond Nootka: A Historical perspective of Vancouver Island Mountains. Misthorn Press. Courtenay, B.C. 1996.

Parker, Gil. Coast Mountain Men. Aware Publishing. Victoria, B.C. 2007.

Eppler, Rick. "Mount Klitsa." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (September 1976) Vol. 4:3. p. 3.

Gibson, John. "Malaspina Peak (South Summit) and Tahsis Mountain." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (September 1976) Vol. 4:3. p. 3-4.

Sampson, Mike. "Mount Albert Edward." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (September 1976) Vol. 4:3. p. 4.

Syroid, Cliff. "Comox Glacier (Red Pillar)." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (November 1976) Vol. 4:4. p. 7.

Syroid, Cliff. "El Capitan." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (November 1976) Vol. 4:4. p. 7.

Woodward, Joan. "Mount Constance." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (November 1976) Vol. 4:4. p. 8.

Tansley, Dave. "Castle Towers." The Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (November 1976) Vol. 4:4. p. 8-9.

Simpson, John. "Elkhorn Mountain." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (January 1977) Vol. 5:1. p. 5-6.

Squarok, Geoff. "Mt. Hooper." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (June 1977) Vol. 5:4. p. 2.

Simpson, John. "Mt. Tit." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (June 1977) Vol. 5:4. p. 2-3.

Eppler, Rick. "Kings Peak." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (August 1977) Vol. 5:5. p. 2.

Wylie, Doug. "Mt. Rainer." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (August 1977) Vol. 5:5. p. 3.

Erickson, Paul. "Mts. Warden, Victoria." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1977) Vol. 5:6. p. 2-3.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Arrowsmith, Winter Ascent of West Ridge." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (February 1978) Vol. 6:1. p. 1-2.

Eppler, Rick. "Mount Landalt." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (April 1978) Vol. 6:2. p. 2.

Tansley, Dave. "Rainbow Mountain." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (April 1978) Vol. 6:2. p. 3-4.

Eppler, Rick. "Strathcona Traverse." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (August 1978) Vol. 6:4. p. 3-4.

Gibson, John. "Mt. Matchlee." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1978) Vol. 6:5. p. 1-2.

Macdonald, Rob. "Mt. Hood." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1979) Vol. 7:5. p. 8-9.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Gemini." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1979) Vol. 7:5. p. 9.

Eppler, Rick. "Maitland Range." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1979) Vol. 7:5. p. 10.

Eppler, Rick. "Kings Peak." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (October 1979) Vol. 7:5. p.11.

Parker, Gil. "Landalt in Winter." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (May/June 1980) Vol. 8:3. p. 10.

Eppler, Rick. "Spring in the MacKenzie Range." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (May/June 1980) Vol. 8:3. p. 12-13.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. DeCosmos." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (March/April 1981) Vol. 9:2. p. 5-6.

Eppler, Rick. "Good Luck on Garibaldi." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (March/April 1981) Vol. 9:2. p. 6.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Slesse West Face." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (March/April 1981) Vol. 9:2. p. 6-7.

Eppler, Rick. "Sahale Peak." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (March/April 1981) Vol. 9:2. p. 11.

Macdonald, Rob. "Victoria Peak South Face." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (December 1982) Vol. 10:3/4. p. 2 & 6.

Eppler, Rick. "Arrowsmith West." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (December 1982) Vol. 10:3/4. p. 5.

Macdonald, Rob. "Fifty Forty Peak." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Spring/Summer 1984) Vol. 12:2. p. 4.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Rexford." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1984) Vol. 12:3. p. 1-2.

Macdonald, Rob. "Sky Pilot." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1984) Vol. 12:3. p. 3.

Macdonald, Rob. "First Ascent of Velella Peak, V.Island." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1985) Vol. 13:3. p. 3.

Macdonald, Rob. "Baby Munday." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1985) Vol. 13:3. p. 3.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Challenger." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1985) Vol. 13:3. p. 5-6.

Eppler, Rick. "Mt. Formidable." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1985) Vol. 13:3. p. 6.

Macdonald, Rob. "Matier, Joffre, and 'Rex's Pillar'." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section newsletter. (Autumn 1985) Vol. 13:3. p. 7.

Tansley, Dave. "Lillooet Ice Cap - Manatee Range." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1992. p. 9-10.

Eppler, Rick. "Maitland Range - Limestone Twins." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1993. p. 16-18.

Pratt, John. "Mount Stuart, North Ridge." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1993. p. 30-31.

Matthews, Nigel. "Mt. Whymper, Northwest Ridge." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1994. p. 5-6.

Macdonald, Rob. "Kokanee Glacier Ski Camp." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1994. p. 11.

Ebendinger, Claire. "It's Munday Again.!" Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1994. p. 16-17.

Macdonald, Rob. "A Short Walk in the hinter Bush - Mount Bate Revisited." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1994. p. 40.

Eppler, Rick. "The "Alava/Bate Sanctuary" Update." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1995. p. 18-21.

Macdonald, Rob. "Mount Septimus." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 1995. p. 24.

Vaughn, Tony. "Mount Alava/Bate Summer Camp Week 3." Island Bushwhacker. The Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Island section. 2010. p. .

Obituary for Rick Eppler Times Colonist. [Victoria, B.C.] (February 25, 2011) p. C5.

Reid, Michael. "From peak to peak." Times Colonist. [Victoria, B.C.] (March 25, 2011) p. C4

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