By John Waters
The East Face of the Northwest Peak of Mount Colonel Foster
Peak (East Face): 5.8 1000m (IV)
One of the
easier routes up the east face of Mount Colonel Foster. Start up the narrow
toe of the Northwest Buttress between two snow gullies. Scrambled 600m
(4th to low 5th) up the buttress crest to the left side of a large obvious
treed ledge. The 50m long ledge is at an elevation of 1600m and is easily
seen from Foster Lake. Walk to the right end and with a few steep moves
trend up and then left back to a small shallow gully. Climb gully walls
to ridge crest. Continue up beautiful ridge crest until the rock steepens.
Climb left and back up very textured rock to the ridge and to the base
of the white pinnacle. The white pinnacle is visible just below the Northwest
Summit. All climbing to here is easier than 5.6. Climb left under the
pinnacle and around the corner; traverse the steep slab to a easy comer
(5.8, 50m,crux, good gear). Climb easy corner back to ridge crest. 50m
more of scrambling to Northwest Summit. We used the ropes for about the
last 100m of climbing. The rock was very solid and clean except near the
loose NW Summit. The whole route will take pretty good gear.
Waters and Renee Monjo, August 4, 2003.