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Mount Colonel Foster:
East Face of Northwest Peak 2003

By John Waters

The East Face of the Northwest Peak of Mount Colonel Foster

Northwest Peak (East Face): 5.8 1000m (IV)

One of the easier routes up the east face of Mount Colonel Foster. Start up the narrow toe of the Northwest Buttress between two snow gullies. Scrambled 600m (4th to low 5th) up the buttress crest to the left side of a large obvious treed ledge. The 50m long ledge is at an elevation of 1600m and is easily seen from Foster Lake. Walk to the right end and with a few steep moves trend up and then left back to a small shallow gully. Climb gully walls to ridge crest. Continue up beautiful ridge crest until the rock steepens. Climb left and back up very textured rock to the ridge and to the base of the white pinnacle. The white pinnacle is visible just below the Northwest Summit. All climbing to here is easier than 5.6. Climb left under the pinnacle and around the corner; traverse the steep slab to a easy comer (5.8, 50m,crux, good gear). Climb easy corner back to ridge crest. 50m more of scrambling to Northwest Summit. We used the ropes for about the last 100m of climbing. The rock was very solid and clean except near the loose NW Summit. The whole route will take pretty good gear.

FA: John Waters and Renee Monjo, August 4, 2003.











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