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Alexandra Peak:
A Royal Danish Consort

by Lindsay Elms

Alexandra Peak from a ridge near Mount Albert EdwardAlexandra Peak, at the head of the Oyster River, is named after Princess Alexandra, the eldest daughter of King Christian IX of Denmark. She became the Princess of Wales in March 1863 when she married Queen Victoria's son Prince Albert Edward, and then Queen Alexandra in 1901 when King Edward VII ascended the throne of England.

From the Comox Argus August 14, 1930


Mr. W.A. [Adrian] B. Paul who has done so much to explore the alpine beyond the Forbidden Plateau has put mountaineers still further in debt by climbing Alexandra Peak from Circle [Circlet] Lake and exploring the country in between. He took with him David Guthrie and Henry Ellis. They rode as far as Croteau's camp and made their base at Circle Lake. It took them four days to get to and climb Alexandra Peak, but Mr. Paul thinks that with his experience, he could now make it in three days. The chief difficulty was in getting in and out of the Oyster valley and its stark bluffs. There is some very fine views and country, and for quite a little of the distance a horse can be taken. There are two peaks at Alexandra, one smaller and one greater.

The Thumb is Difficult
The smaller is the thumb and the larger like the doubled fist. The smaller is so steep and difficult as [Mount] Arrowsmith with quite a little rock work but there are good handholds. It can only be climbed from this side, on two other sides it is sheer and on the other side it overhangs. The bigger peak is not difficult. From the top of Alexandra a wide vista of the glaciers and peaks of Buttles Lake reveals itself. Many very interesting peaks and alpine country come into view that are very tempting for the explorer. The top of one peak looks like a tennis court, so level is it forming the top of a very steep mountain. Gradually as climbers penetrate into this country trails will be mapped out. The pioneer always has to do the hard climbing and the hard work for others to follow: but his is the joy of penetrating into virgin territory.

Surveyors camp at Circlet Lake 1934Addendum:
by Lindsay Elms
After Adrian Paul and his party's ascent in 1930, the surveyor Leroy Cokely set up a station on what he called the "hump" on Alexandra Peak. Then on July 11, 1934 the surveyor Norman Stewart, along with packers Dick Williams and Dan Harris climbed the peak in wet, foggy conditions, however, they left their instruments at the timberline. Two days later Stewart and William's were back on the summit only this time they were able to take some readings but no photographs. Stewart returned again on July 17 and 18 to obtain more readings and that was followed by three days of rain. Finally on the 22nd and 23rd Stewart took his last readings from the two summit stations (Alexandra NE and SE) before heading back to Circlet Lake. However, while on the summit of Alexandra Peak on the 23rd Stewart was able to see William Moffat, another surveyor, on the summit of Mount Albert Edward.



ron Facer looking at Alexandra Peak 1964   Mike Stout and ron Facer sitting on the summit of Alexandra Peak
CDMC and IMR party on the summit of Alexandra Peak 1964   Otto Winnig on the summit of Alexandra Peak 1964


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