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The Golden Hinde 1983:
First Ascent of the South Face

From the Island Bushwhacker Volume 11:4, Autumn 1983.
By Jim Sandford

Golden Hinde: South Face Ascent.

On July 30, 1983 John Gresham, Don Newman and I made what we believe was the first ascent of the South Face of The Golden Hinde (2,200m, 7,219'), shown on topo map Buttle Lake 92 F/12. We rated the route Grade II, 5.4.

Reach Burman Lake in Strathcona Park, then hike to a tarn at the base of the south face. Float planes can land on Burman Lake (eg. from Gold River) otherwise it is a 2-3 day hike in from Westmin mining area.

Route Description:
Ascent the S slopes aiming for a left diagonal heather ramp. Scramble up the ramp to its end. Climb up and right through a weakness in a prominent left-facing dihedral, then straight up the face to a sloping rock ledge. Scramble up and right to a groove leading up the face. Climb this and when it deepens ascend the face on the left reaching another sloping ledge. Scramble up and right and climb a prominent granitic rock band to a rotten red ledge. From here traverse right for about 70m. Reach a left diagonal hidden gully and ascend it to the summit; loose rock in places. Protection is difficult; hard hats are recommended. Descend via Southeast Gully (standard route).

by Lindsay Elms
On the morning of July 30, Dave Routledge, Albert Hestler, Cliff Syroid, Brian Money, Don Newman, Gary Allen, John Gresham and Jim Sandford, flew into Burman Lake from Gold River with Nootka Air. At 10:30 the party hiked up to the base camp at the tarn then the party divided into two groups with the above three climbing the South Face of The Golden Hinde while the rest of the party climbed the standard Southeast Gully route. They all met on the summit at 4:15 p.m.. After descending, camp was made on the ridge between the Golden Hinde and The Behinde. Over the next three days the party continued out to the Elk River trailhead via Mount DeVoe. The next day the party headed up the Ucona River to the trail that Bill Coyne had blazed through to the lower meadows of Matchlee Mountain. By 4 p.m. they reached the summit of the mountain. The following day they made an ascent of Puzzle Mountain capping off a successful week in Strathcona Park.

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