By John Waters
The East Face of the Northeast Peak of Mount Colonel Foster
The climb begins up the Northwest Peak route on 3rd class rock till above the small snow patch. The route starts up a steep right slanting flake then traverses left and up to the big right trending ramp. The route follows the right trending ramp for about 200m (some steep 5.6, but mostly lots of 4th class) then a traverse for 30m to the left on an exposed ledge which leads to a nice tree ledge below the steep headwall. Another 50m pitch up the face to an obvious crack system and a good belay ledge. There were then three pitches of steep 5.9 cracks/grooves with lots of places for protection and good belay ledges. The next pitch is an easier slab/crack to another nice belay ledge. Traverse left (over loose blocks for 10m) then up an easy gully (3rd class scrambling) to a right slanting big ledge. Then climb a fun (5.7) corner. Traverse down 10m then finish up easy 3rd class rock to the top of Northeast Peak.
From Foster Lake it took us about 9 hours to the top of the Northeast Peak then we traversed to the main summit, the Southwest and Southeast Summits and then down to the South Col and the lake. Round trip time - 15 hours.
is the hardest route I have done on 'The Colonel' yet."
FA: John Waters, Mike Waters and Grant McCartney, August 17, 2009.